The focal point of Provenance, Cathy Pavlos' second restaurant, is its garden, with raised planters and a wall of potted herbs. If it functions like the lobster tanks in a seafood joint, convincing customers that what they're about to eat will be fresh, fresh, fresh, that's exactly the point. A section on the menu is dedicated to what you can actually order from it. Titled "What's In the Garden Now," it's an impressive list of about a half-dozen elaborate side dishes that start with things invariably plucked from those plant beds. Provenance's customers skew to the Lawrence Welk generation -- the parents and grandparents of those who power lunch at Fleming's or come out of Bloomingdale's with shopping bags by the armful. One of Provenance's best entrées is the New Zealand sole "on the Plancha," and it's all about how fast it can be delivered from the broiler to your mouth, served rocket-hot with nothing more than a lemon wedge, a curl of crispy prosciutto, potatoes pressed against something metal to get a nice sear and spinach. 2531 Eastbluff Dr., Newport Beach, (949) 718-0477;

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